Sewing

Sewing and Perseverance

FullSizeRenderI have lived long enough on this earth to know that when I get the feeling that I am not of sound mind or body, I need to stop trying to sew.  I have learned that there are days to design, there are days to sew and there are days to just say no.  Adhering to this principle leads to a lot less frustration, tearing of hair, gnashing of teeth and spitting of curse words.  This shirt is an object lesson to this principle.

I have been sick since the beginning of November.  The kind of sick that one has where they really don’t feel good but they don’t feel bad enough to lie in bed or be hospitalized.  Nevertheless, I know I was off my game, and on some days out of my head.  I burnt baked goods that I have baked every Christmas for my adult life.  I put groceries in the wrong cabinets, couldn’t remember people’s names and totally forgot that I ever owned a particular vehicle.  None of this is like me at all.

Yet, during this “off time”, I was off on Christmas vacation and that has always meant prime sewing time.  Every day I went to the sewing room and tried to pick something up.  And every day I screwed it up so badly that I was too embarrassed to show anyone.  This shirt somehow survived that horrible time.

I have been looking for a simple basic bodice that will fit my extreme bust comfortably for quite some time with no luck. (See previous blogposts.)  I stumbled upon this B2104 Tailored shirt pattern from Fashion Patterns by Coni.  I traced off a straight 4X in hopes to make a muslin.  I struggle with making muslins. I always want to jump right to some fabric.  My mother shared a box of flannel with me.  The box had been purchased at a yard sale for a couple dollars and contained a wealth of thick cushy cotton flannel in yummy colors.  I instantly grabbed this blue and black piece and tried to cut out the shirt pieces.

I hesitate to write a review of this pattern owing to my recent lack of any semblance of a mind but let’s just say both the pattern and my skills have issues.  The problems with the pattern amount mostly to no more than some typos and some nearly accurate numbers and measurements.  The pattern called for over 5 yards of flannel and I was able to lay it out in 3.  I still am not sure how that happened but since, as you can see, the shirt does have all its parts, I’m not going to question it.

I did such a great job on this shirt.<sarcastic laugh>  Notice the near-perfectly matched plaids on the front bodice pieces and the pocket placement.  I made the most beautiful front plackets, then added and pressed the most elegant stand collar.  I was in love with the shirt.  So much so, that I bought a belt to match it and planned the leggings and boots to match.

Then I tried the shirt on.

There were the most oddly shaped humps above where my bust should be.  Round protrusions coming out of the armholes just even with where my cleavage started.  What the crap?

Then I discovered it.  I had sewn the right sleeve in the left front bodice and the left sleeve in the right front bodice.  My sleeve plackets and cuffs were really nice but now they lapped the wrong way.  I wish I could say I was horrified.  I wanted to bang my head against the wall,.

I let it lie for a couple days and then I realized.  Successful sewing is nothing but perseverance through adversity.  It forces anyone that thinks their work is perfect to come to the realization that maybe it is not the gift to the world they thought it was.  Sometimes bad things happen during construction and sometimes, as bad as we hate to admit it, we need to learn the patience to go back, rip out the wrong seams and re-sew them the correct way.

And yes, one learns that if you are a little off your game or if your sewing mo-jo has left the building—Stop, just stop!

Sewing

Change of Course on Fitting

I firmly believe that one should know when it is time to stop pursuing an idea, trash it all and start over from another direction.  If you like the “outside the box” metaphor, then I envision holding a lit match to the box and setting sail in another direction.  I’ve been struggling through several garments trying to apply all the FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) principles for my XL bust.  I’ve had some excellent help from Curvy Sewing Collection and I’ve read virtually every tutorial available and my XL bust defies fitting.  I finally developed a muslin that fit (tightly) around my full bust but the fit of the rest of the bodice was awful.  The shoulders were horrible, the waist was a nightmare, and the darts were so large and pointing at the wrong angle.  This is not going to work for me.

Enough is enough.  Time for another idea.  I have a couple of shirts that are RTW (Ready To Wear) and fit very, very well.  I purchased them from plus-size fashion retailers.  Plus-size clothing retailers have obviously done some work in the fitting department or they would not be in business and would not be selling garments to the masses.  So I’ve set about tracing off a pattern from these two garments.  These garments will at the very least provide a starting point to tweak rather than force me to start from scratch and build a fitting bodice from the ground up.

I’ll let you know how it goes.

Sewing

Killer Bees Vest

IMG_2428b(raises hand) I, Aleeah, do solemnly swear from this day forward to never sew a garment for myself by following the pattern exactly.  I do further swear that I will not cut exactly on the printed pattern lines or stitch on the printed seamlines until I have made every attempt to fit and adjust said pattern pieces, specifically seamlines, to fit me.

I place this photo here and wear the Killer Bees Vest to the day job today as an example of my sewing misconceptions and document it as a means to remind me of lessons that I have learned over the past couple of months.  These past few months have been very enlightening as I return to garment sewing after 20 years.  I’ve spend much time reading blog posts and tutorials and op ed’s on how sewing and fitting should be approached rather than how I was taught to do it.

This is the last garment I will sew straight from the pattern!

I referenced this vest in an earlier post. Here are the details:

I used McCalls 5252, opting for view D, the hooded full-zip vest.  I used the XXXL size, split the yoke and spread it about an inch and increased the width of the underarm side panel piece.

Note the red arrow in the upper right.  There is extra fabric there because I pivoted the front to add a couple of inches for a FBA but failed to realize the shoulders need adjusting as well.  And yes, you can fit a bowling ball in there.

The arrow on the left pointing to the base of the zipper shows where I could not make the hems match.  I hemmed it twice.  The zipper, although stitched on the vest separately, matched exactly at the top and I was never able to get the bottoms to line up.  Needless, to say, this is the only time today the vest will be zipped up.

The arrow on the lower right seemingly pointing to my right hand demonstrates exactly how much room the pocket opening has.  Something about the construction of these pockets totally eluded me.  Not only is that pocket very small, the opposite pocket is regular size and both has the fleece selvages exposed at the pocket opening.

All I can say was it was a bad sewing day.  Evidently, the thought of trying to produce a good-looking garment for myself affects my subconscious in a very negative way.

Onward and upward!

Oh, and here is what I think I look like with this on.

Sewing

New Online Pattern Magazine from Collette Patterns

Collette Patterns is almost ready to roll out its new online digital pattern magazine. Use this link to get on their email list.

Seamwork from Collette Patterns

I’ve not been fortunate to use any of their patterns yet, especially the much-loved Moneta, but I hope to in the future.  And I’m very excited about the move to digital format in the pattern magazine world.  Finally, someone who gets “digital”.

 

 

 

Alterations · Sewing

Hemming Jeans–the Rest of the Story

Untitled designPinterest is covered up with posts about hemming jeans and preserving the original hem on the pant legs.  I’ve seen it over and over again.  But here is what they don’t tell you.

Stitch the hem, they say.  Iron the new hem, they say. It’s easy, they say. And, I guess it is easy. But, I feel like someone needs to be Paul Harvey here and tell the “rest of the story”.

The newly hemmed jeans will need to be washed at some point.  I know there are many opinions on washing jeans but that is for another post.  The denim will do what denim is known for doing and that is unravel.  Many consumers pay great prices for jeans with unraveled holes and tears in the denim. Unfortunately, unraveling from the inside of the hem is not considered a good thing.  This pair unraveled despite the fact that I pinked the raw edges.  The fabric of leg unraveled up into the stitching and produced a hole in the hem.

My only solution was to restitch the new hem, trying to catch as much solid fabric as I can.  I started to doubt myself and jumped on Pinterest and looked at the original instructions on this method of hemming jeans.  And, yes, I recalled it accurately.  At this point, they recommend ironing the hem flat and going on with your life.  This time I decided to press the hem flat and add a line of stitching in the ditch of the new hem all the way around the leg.  I used a dark thread so that no one would see it, but I feel that little extra line of stitches will reinforce the raw edges on the interior and help keep the hem from rolling up.

We will see how this works.  These particular jeans are the dear daughter’s and I’m sure she will alert me at the first sign of any imperfection.

Do have any experience with this new method to hem jeans?  Is is working for you? What did I miss?

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CreativeLive – a Discovery!

Facebook finally did something right! My Facebook Newsfeed suggested I follow or “Like” the Fanpage for CreativeLive. Normally, I don’t give these suggested pages a second look, but the words “creative entrepreneur” popped out at me and I was hooked.  Have any of you looked at this site?  Their website says they are “the world’s leading online classroom for the creative entrepreneur.”  They offer FREE, yes, you saw it correctly, FREE online classes.  The classes are grouped in several different creative categories, but the topics of each are so timely.

The free classes stream online continually.  I clicked on the website to see what classes were playing at that exact moment when I found the time to listen/watch.  By clicking on the RSVP, you can get added to the class to chat along with other participants or ask the speaker questions.  The handouts and workbooks are provided FREE, if you log in.

The sessions that I have listened to so far were very good.  The speakers were very knowledgeable and personable and interesting.  I’ve listened to The Art of Selling What You Make by Tara Gentile and Create Digital Products That Sell While You Sleep by April Bowles-Olin Both lessons take on the hard topics and lead creatives through the process from creating to marketing both themselves and their product.  The content in these courses is well -worth their standard $49 class rate, if you miss any of the current streaming courses.

Have you checked them out?  I challenge you to listen, do the exercises and improve your creative entrepreneurship.  Let me know what you think.

Sewing

Epic Sewing Fails

IMG_2273.JPGI hate when this happens! I could sew every day for the rest of my life and I’m pretty sure I would spend one-third of my time making these knots or fixing these knots. But they have taught me one thing–patience.

Time was when I would toss a project aside at the first sign of this problem. I soon grew tired of tossing fabric and never completing anything. So I taught myself to not give up. Was it easy? No. Was it frustrating? Yes. Did I lose my temper? Yes. Some days I had to physically clinch all my muscles to keep myself at my sewing machine. I’ve even practiced deep breathing exercises.

Now, after years of knots, I have a personal rule. When this knot happens, unthread the machine then re-thread the machine. Take a deep breath and sew. And the third time this happens during one sitting, I acknowledge that the forces of sewing are not in my favor and I turn it off and do something else the rest of the day.

Do professionals have these problems? How much of their time do they lose on such things?

Sewing

Fitting Frustration

Does the quote “every man who is his own lawyer, has a fool for a client” apply to sewing garments for yourself?  Does any one that sews to fit themselves have a nitwit for a client? Maybe not all, but maybe those that have difficult body shapes to fit?  I’m beginning to feel like a fool, nitwit and idiot.

Disclaimer:  I feel I must state here that I have a shape that has an above-average degree of difficulty to fit.  (No hating, it is what it is.)

First, there was the green dress.  I chose Butterick 6033 because I really crave a dress.  I would love a simple dress with a little shaping. It needs to be something I can put together quickly in an easy-care woven fabric.  I’m not a fan of draping clingy knit on my body.  I chose the Connie Crawford’s because they are the only ones close to my RTW size of 4X (34-36W). I picked a sweet little print in a pale sage green.  I cut a 4X but used a pivot FBA to add an inch to the bust measurement in some vain effort to fit my DDD+ bust.  I’d show a picture of it but that dress and all photo evidence has been deleted from my life.  I stitched the dress up quickly and was hoping to wear it to my daughter’s wedding shower.  On the day of the shower, I was able to get the dress on.  There was more than enough ease under the arms but when my husband asked if the armholes were supposed to show on the front of my bust, I removed the dress and tossed it.

Next, there was the Pearl Snaps and Pivot FBA shirt. I used a menswear western shirt pattern that I had used in the past with good results.  I pivoted the pattern to allow for the FBA and produced a western shirt that I have worn and will wear again.  It does fit around the bust AND the hips.  It has a rather large blocky shape to it and I fear it does nothing for my figure.  It is a fun shirt that I wear line dancing so I will continue to wear it for the fun of it. But I have been reading all of the blogposts on fitting a curvy figure and I crave a better fit.

Then, there was the Killer Bees incident.  My husband found a new sporting goods store to visit in a nearby town and I rode along to get in some quality time with him and my latest knitting project.  I happened upon a Hancock Fabrics store and decided to run in.  Fleece was on a fabulous sale and sitting right at the front door.  A few yards of golden yellow jumped off the fabric table and followed me home.  Why golden yellow, you might ask?  My university’s colors are blue and gold so I envisioned a fleece vest or jacket in gold with a navy zipper and navy top-stitching.

Days passed and the more I thought about that fleece and my shape, the more I began to worry.  A mental image came to me one day of John Belushi in his Killer Bee costume from Saturday Night Live.  Would I really look like that, I thought.  With that in mind, I pressed on.  I used McCalls 5252, opting for view D, the hooded full-zip vest.  I used the XXXL size, split the yoke and spread it about an inch and increased the width of the underarm side panel piece.

The vest is finished. I may wear it, I may not.  It does in fact fit around me.  It does fit around my hips. It is long enough to cover my midriff excesses.  But the armholes are large enough I could pass a small child through them while I’m wearing the vest.  I have so much extra fabric and space in my shoulder area.  Three strikes and I feel that fitting clothes for myself seems an impossibility at this point.

Yesterday, I ran across The Truth About Fitting post by  on the Curvy Sewing Collective. The timing of Mary’s blogpost was perfect.  When the vest did not work out last night, I simply filed it away as a lesson learned.  I analyzed all three of my epic-fail sewing as I prepared to write this post, and have come to one conclusion.  Fitting yourself is hard for EVERY body. It is hard to do and it is hard to get right. Perfect fit is a very elusive creature. I think trying to fit something on yourself adds a whole degree of difficulty that we don’t take into consideration.

So, I will not give up!  I will continue to try, to persevere. I resolve to not use any more menswear or unisex patterns.  I will continue in the ongoing search for someone or some idea that will help me conquer an XL FBA.  It’s out there, I just need to find it.  Or am I the only one of this size out there?

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Help Wanted Listings on the Web

I’ve surfed the job listings on the internet such as Career Builder and Yahoo Jobs.  Who hasn’t?  But I must say that I am always unimpressed.  Job ads always look like generic descriptions that have been used for years–job ads that have not changed since the Industrial Revolution.  Most of them appear to be a paper job add that was typed into a form screen by some underpaid secretary in a back office somewhere.I always ask myself……where are the exciting jobs, the ones that sound interesting, would challenge me, would use skills appropriate for current society?

Hat’s off to Brittni at Paper & Stitch.  I ran across her job listing today in her blogpost.  She, unlike all of the other employers I’ve seen, asks for an email application while other standard jobs ask for a paper resume or some basic web page form.  She asks for links to the applicant’s website and social media accounts.  Wow, how outside of the box, NOT!  Let’s face it, we are out there and in the type position she is hiring for, she needs someone who is “out there”.  Social media is here to stay and let’s just embrace it.  Your potential employer should get the chance to see you as all of your friends and family and random acquaintances off the street see you.

Maybe we need a new job website that has checklists for being tech-savvy, social media literate and all-around in touch with the modern technology.