Alterations

Removing Pearl Snaps to Upcycle a Man’s Western Shirt

IIMG_0977 am a sucker for western shirts. The farm-raised country girl in me loves the sight of a top-stitched yoke on both the front and back of a shirt…….(because everybody knows that shirts with yokes on only the front or back are wanna be’s…..city slickers.)

The glint of pearl snaps makes me go weak in the knees. One browse through my favorite Etsy store, CowgirlSnaps, can inspire me to design western shirts for hours. I am experienced at creating and sewing western shirts. If my ample female chest would adapt more readily to the typically male cut of a cowboy shirt, I would have a closet full of yoked, pearl-snapped beauties.

When a client came to me asking if I could replace the snaps on a shirt with buttons, I was able to hide my reaction and agreed to attempt the project. She explained the shirt had been her grandfather’s. Her grandfather had recently passed away and she had claimed his shirt to wear herself. She felt the snaps made it look too masculine for her.

I am sure anyone watching me while we spoke would have seen me flex my thumbs as I remembered all the times I have mashed my thumbs while applying snaps to my home sewn shirts. I have extensive experience in applying snaps. “Surely”, I mused, “the snaps will come off the same way they went on.” I felt my thumbs twitch, anticipating the pain sure to accompany the project.

I agreed to try the client’s request. Here is what I learned:

 Proper tools are essential – All snap kits come with a snap setting tool. This tool is NO help IMG_1005in snap removal. Apply a snap in the wrong spot and one is pretty much screwed. Lacking any better idea, I choose my favorite all-purpose multi-tool, a treasured gift from my husband. I find that when you put items found in hardware stores on your Wish List, husbands are more likely to give you a gift at gift-giving occasions.

The stud portion of the snap was backed with an open prong ring. I grabbed a portion of the ring with the pliers on the tool and gently but firmly peeled the ring from the fabric. Once the entire prong ring has been pulled free, the stud should fall away from the fabric.

IMG_0978The socket portion is more difficult to remove. I used the pliers to grip the snap’s socket and tried to bend the pearl snap and fabric away from the socket. With a little bit of patience and a lot of hand strength the two parts of the snap can be separated. Once separated, the pearl snap prongs will still be embedded in the fabric. The pliers easily straightened the five prongs allowing them to slip back through the fabric in the same manner that they went in. Caution here, as some of the prongs will break off, leaving small bits of metal in the fabric, falling into the folds of clothing and carpets.

The amount of wear on the shirt and the number of launderings will determine if the presence of the snap will be noticeable after it is removed. – Good quality fabric will not fade very much and most of the time, there should be no holes under the snaps. A slightly shiny look may remain on the fabric beneath the snap but that can be covered with buttonhole or button placement.

I proceeded from here with sewing standard buttonholes in place of the removed pearl studs. (Remember which side of the shirt front or sleeve cuff that laps over. Buttons can be stitched on the shirt in the exact location of the pearl sockets, aligned with the buttonholes.

So feel free to raid male family members’ closets and cruise yard sales and consignment shops. Men’s western shirts can be feminized, snaps can be removed and replace with buttons……or hey, maybe even replace with different snaps…something with some bling, yeah, now there ‘s an idea!

Sewing

Periscope for Sewists?

PeriscopeDoes Periscope have anything to offer to modern sewists?  Share your thoughts with me.

A coworker mentioned Periscope to me one day when she would be traveling during a critical workplace meeting.  She asked if we could perhaps “do a Periscope“.  In my need to keep everyone happy, I did some research on Periscope.  The plans changed regarding that specific meeting and I never thought again about it.  Then, randomly, I happened across a tweet from Rit Dye announcing someone would be trying out a technique “tomorrow on Periscope“.

I was intrigued so I downloaded the app, created an account and began to follow other “scopers”.   I admit that Twitter is not my primary focus for social media especially not for my sewing and crafting business.  I am much more interested in a visual media such as Instagram, Pinterest, and Facebook.  I was unaware of any sewist tweeters much less “scopers”.  Periscope is young and has a less than sophisticated search mechanism so I was unable to identify sewist accounts.

So, after receiving LOTS of notifications of live scopes and lots or Trolls and way too much video of nonsense stuff, I am in search of sewists on Periscope.  I discovered the knitters of the world are all over this venue but I find the sewists are nearly nonexistent.  I find it to be very interesting and exciting! Trolls are an exception. I don’t like those but they are everywhere, I guess.  As I write this post, I’m watching some street musicians perform live in Times Square. The next scope I find is a live video feed from some river rapids in East Granby, Connecticutt providing a cool, fresh view and the mesmerizing sounds of running water on a Friday afternoon.

Give me your thoughts on Periscope.  Do you like it? Do you use it?  Do you lurk and view or do you create content?  I can see all types of uses for it but if there is no one out there listening, I wonder if it is worth the effort.

 

Alterations · Sewing · Uncategorized

Capes Are For More Than Superheros

So a woman contacted me and asked if I could do capes.  I had just completed 140 felt superhero capes for our church vacation bible school.  Their theme was Jesus is My Superhero and the director wanted all of the students to have a cape for the program.  Four bolts of pink and blue felt later, we had a program of over 100 kids in capes.

I thought maybe she saw my handiwork and was interested in getting something made.  I was intrigued by a grown adult wanting a superhero cape.  On further questioning, I find that she wants a cape for her evening gown.  Wow, that would be a bold statement!  But, not to judge, I was all for the creative challenge.

I work in an environment where most of the employees spend a great deal of time in graphic novels. As a result of that, many discussions contain superheroes.  There are often arguments over who is the true superhero, Batman or Ironman.  I was not too surprised at this request. I have made capes before.  I once attempted a superhero cape for a 12-foot tall inflatable man, but that is a story for another blog post. I know, it is not something most sewist have on their resume.  I was a little curious so I asked her to send me some pictures from the internet.  “Show me what you have in mind”, I told her.  (What did we ever do before the internet? Whatever you can dream up, there is an image out there somewhere for something almost identical.)

Three images, 4 yards of black organza and one fitting later, I have truly crafted her two capes to wear with her evening gown.

 

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Alterations · Sewing

I Got Published

IMG_0159The momma of the beautiful little girl is  a dear friend and she shared with me the struggles that she has finding cute boutique clothing for her daughter.  It is a struggle that I know all too well.

For me, the challenge had been issued and I knew I had the skills to tackle it.  I designed this cute little tunic for her out of fabric that she requested.  There are no patterns, no tutorials for this type sewing.  There is a wealth of resources for anyone sewing for a plus-size adult.  As her smile shows, I think she was very pleased with her new top.  I made a couple more garments for her but throughout the process I noticed the complete lack of resources for anyone sewing or shopping for healthy little girls.

My exposure to the academic world through my day job led me to believe that perhaps I needed to write about the struggle for this age group and perhaps write some patterns and tutorials, perhaps even a book.  My answer came quickly.  I submitted an article concerning the struggle for this age group to the a web community that I am a member of, the Curvy Sewing Collective.  One of the editors responded that they were interested in my article and encouraged me to continue on.  My blog post appears to be well-received, causing many to comment.  I think it is a success!

Now, see?  I’m more than a pants hemmer. (see previous post)

Sewing

Super Pants-hemmer? Not!

As of June 1st, Fruit From My Hands became established as a business.  That is, as far as the Internal Revenue is concerned.  What kind of business is it, what do I do?  Good question! I’ve listened to webinars, read blog posts, studied theories, meditated and everything else I could think of to do.  There are some very good materials out there for creative entrepreneurs who want to go into business for themselves.  I especially like the free streams from CreativeLive, but alas they never solved my major problem. What should I do?

What do I “do”?  What is my craft, what is my skill?  One of the first workshops I listened to informed me that I cannot do it all. I should define the single thing I do and do it.  This is the one step that stymies creatives, I have found.  I was frozen in place for several years on this step.  My Etsy shop has many random items with no central theme other than I had a bright idea and wanted to try them.  (I’ve been advised that is the sure sign of death for an Etsy shop but it is what it is.) The exercise from the speaker suggested looking at the past six months and decide what one “thing” had people paid me to do the most.  Okay, so I looked back over the past six months to a year.  Wow, people really love to have me hem their pants!  So, by their estimation, I should be the Pants Hemmer. Be the best pants hemmer out there, market myself as that and sleep, eat and breathe pants hemming.

Um, no.  I’m pretty sure that I will be paying the rent in the future with pants hemming and I am not opposed to doing it but I have too many skills to confine myself to one task, one skill.  While I was looking at the past six months activities, I saw so many other things that tied for second place but they did not net me a lot of money.  I’ve written articles, I’ve dabbled with an ebook, I’ve investigated my own ecourse, I’ve taught classes, I’ve advised creatives, I’ve consulted on projects.  No, I can’t be the great superhero, Pants-hemmer.

So without much fanfare, I made a command decision.  I choose to be a sewing and craft consultant.  A Jack-of-all-crafts, so to speak, that can help, advise, teach and further spread the joy that is creativity.  So whenever someone says, “Do you know anyone that does ______?” or “Is there someone that can teach me how to __________?”, my name can go in that blank.

Now to figure out how to make that into a tagline and find a market….hmmmmm.

Sewing

I Sew Because…

I am a sewist, a creator of clothes, quilts, bags, home decorating, and many other things. have sewn for over 20 years. My projects have changed over the years as my needs have changed.  I was sewing before sewing was cool.  I learned to sew during the last time period when sewing was cool.

At the age of 50, I began to do some self-examination.  I realize that IO do not need to do things simply because I have always done them.  I have the freedom of choice to continue or stop processes or habits in my life.  My time is valuable and I am making the conscious choice to d those things that are rewarding to me.  This decision has caused me to inventory my activities during my spare time as well as my professional life.  Sewing dominates most of my spare time. Why?  Why do I sew? The first step is to examine why I sew in order to make a more informed decision on whether to continue devoting so much time to it.

I wish I could say sewing is my artform.  Sewing is a means of creative expression for many people.  They consider themselves fiber artists. I can say I may create art and each project has my aesthetic throughout it, but I am no artist.

I wish I could say my sewing is the result of my inner urge to be a “maker”.  There is currently a huge Maker Movement underway.  I wish I could say I sew from a deep inner need to make things and create objects. Yes, I have a desire to create things and learn techniques, both traditional and modern. I love learning new crafts.  I will forever be a student of how things are made, but I am no maker.

I can definitively say, after much introspective, that I am a sewist out of necessity.  I would like to turn this blog into an art gallery or maker space, but it is a complete waste of time.  I have asked myself the hard question.  I have no doubt now that I sew because the goods I need are not readily available.

I learned to sew clothing because my mother sewed clothing.  My mother learned to sew clothing because her mother sewed clothing.  We made my clothing because garments were not available in my size.

There were no clothes to fit me in the late seventies and early eighties.  I suffered from being a healthy child from hearty Midwestern stock.  No one in my family fit within the standard size measurements established in the late forties.  I remember a school year when I was finally able to fit into husky jeans designed for girls much, much older than me.  For a few golden months, I was able to wear jeans from a mail-order department store.  I remember that being a year that I thought I was someone special.

Later, as a teenager and young adult, the fashion industry began to make clothes for my more-than-average frame. Unfortunately, the price tag affixed to those garments was beyond my meager budget.  The tops, pants, and dresses tended toward the matronly or the muumuu styles but nevertheless, I was finally able to wear “store-bought” clothes.

So here I am, a mature adult and my frame has not changed.  I am still larger than those original standard measurements that have not been updated since the later forties.  My clothing choices are more plentiful. There has recently been a revolution to acknowledge those who wear a size twelve or larger.  I applaud that movement.  I hope it gains more and more momentum.

The portion of my budget dedicated to clothing is not any greater than it was in my younger years, but I find I have a fabric stash, as do all sewists.  The temptation to walk into the sewing room, pick up an attractive yardage of fabric and craft a garment that fits me specifically in all the right places and is the right color or design for my body is a force that I cannot resist.  It feels good to finally have sewn enough that my skill level has progressed past beginner.  Many techniques are second nature.  Yes, I sew because I need it.  I need well-fitting clothing that suits my style and my pocketbook, as well as expresses my artistic personality and fulfills my need to work with my hands and craft something.

Alterations · Sewing

Hemming – Oh the Horror!

IMG_2762Clearly, I am missing something.  Would someone please explain it to me?  When did hemming pants and sewing on buttons become such a curse?

I see lots of Facebook and Instagram posts and graphics stating how much sewists are offended by hemming pants and sewing for their friends. There are t-shirts that say “Yes, I sew. No, I won’t hem your pants.”  I don’t feel that way and I guess I don’t understand why others do.

Yes, I sew. I quilt, I knit, I crochet, I bead, I cross-stitch and anything else I can find to do with my hands that is a creative outlet.  And I will hem your pants.  I will sew buttons on for you.  I will take up your dresses and repair little holes and tears.  There have been dark times in my life that the hemming and sewing paid for the groceries. I’m not too proud to know that I could possibly need it to pay for them and more in the future.

My friends know I sew. They respect me for my sewing knowledge and my skills. When they have a wardrobe malfunction or a garment for a special event, they entrust it to me.  I see so many sewist who sew for themselves because they want well-fitting quality garments.  They complain about the ready-to-wear industry.  What better opportunity to teach someone about proper fit and design than hemming their pants to an appropriate length?

I don’t get it.  I really don’t.

Sewing

Sewing and Perseverance

FullSizeRenderI have lived long enough on this earth to know that when I get the feeling that I am not of sound mind or body, I need to stop trying to sew.  I have learned that there are days to design, there are days to sew and there are days to just say no.  Adhering to this principle leads to a lot less frustration, tearing of hair, gnashing of teeth and spitting of curse words.  This shirt is an object lesson to this principle.

I have been sick since the beginning of November.  The kind of sick that one has where they really don’t feel good but they don’t feel bad enough to lie in bed or be hospitalized.  Nevertheless, I know I was off my game, and on some days out of my head.  I burnt baked goods that I have baked every Christmas for my adult life.  I put groceries in the wrong cabinets, couldn’t remember people’s names and totally forgot that I ever owned a particular vehicle.  None of this is like me at all.

Yet, during this “off time”, I was off on Christmas vacation and that has always meant prime sewing time.  Every day I went to the sewing room and tried to pick something up.  And every day I screwed it up so badly that I was too embarrassed to show anyone.  This shirt somehow survived that horrible time.

I have been looking for a simple basic bodice that will fit my extreme bust comfortably for quite some time with no luck. (See previous blogposts.)  I stumbled upon this B2104 Tailored shirt pattern from Fashion Patterns by Coni.  I traced off a straight 4X in hopes to make a muslin.  I struggle with making muslins. I always want to jump right to some fabric.  My mother shared a box of flannel with me.  The box had been purchased at a yard sale for a couple dollars and contained a wealth of thick cushy cotton flannel in yummy colors.  I instantly grabbed this blue and black piece and tried to cut out the shirt pieces.

I hesitate to write a review of this pattern owing to my recent lack of any semblance of a mind but let’s just say both the pattern and my skills have issues.  The problems with the pattern amount mostly to no more than some typos and some nearly accurate numbers and measurements.  The pattern called for over 5 yards of flannel and I was able to lay it out in 3.  I still am not sure how that happened but since, as you can see, the shirt does have all its parts, I’m not going to question it.

I did such a great job on this shirt.<sarcastic laugh>  Notice the near-perfectly matched plaids on the front bodice pieces and the pocket placement.  I made the most beautiful front plackets, then added and pressed the most elegant stand collar.  I was in love with the shirt.  So much so, that I bought a belt to match it and planned the leggings and boots to match.

Then I tried the shirt on.

There were the most oddly shaped humps above where my bust should be.  Round protrusions coming out of the armholes just even with where my cleavage started.  What the crap?

Then I discovered it.  I had sewn the right sleeve in the left front bodice and the left sleeve in the right front bodice.  My sleeve plackets and cuffs were really nice but now they lapped the wrong way.  I wish I could say I was horrified.  I wanted to bang my head against the wall,.

I let it lie for a couple days and then I realized.  Successful sewing is nothing but perseverance through adversity.  It forces anyone that thinks their work is perfect to come to the realization that maybe it is not the gift to the world they thought it was.  Sometimes bad things happen during construction and sometimes, as bad as we hate to admit it, we need to learn the patience to go back, rip out the wrong seams and re-sew them the correct way.

And yes, one learns that if you are a little off your game or if your sewing mo-jo has left the building—Stop, just stop!

Sewing

Change of Course on Fitting

I firmly believe that one should know when it is time to stop pursuing an idea, trash it all and start over from another direction.  If you like the “outside the box” metaphor, then I envision holding a lit match to the box and setting sail in another direction.  I’ve been struggling through several garments trying to apply all the FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) principles for my XL bust.  I’ve had some excellent help from Curvy Sewing Collection and I’ve read virtually every tutorial available and my XL bust defies fitting.  I finally developed a muslin that fit (tightly) around my full bust but the fit of the rest of the bodice was awful.  The shoulders were horrible, the waist was a nightmare, and the darts were so large and pointing at the wrong angle.  This is not going to work for me.

Enough is enough.  Time for another idea.  I have a couple of shirts that are RTW (Ready To Wear) and fit very, very well.  I purchased them from plus-size fashion retailers.  Plus-size clothing retailers have obviously done some work in the fitting department or they would not be in business and would not be selling garments to the masses.  So I’ve set about tracing off a pattern from these two garments.  These garments will at the very least provide a starting point to tweak rather than force me to start from scratch and build a fitting bodice from the ground up.

I’ll let you know how it goes.

Sewing

Killer Bees Vest

IMG_2428b(raises hand) I, Aleeah, do solemnly swear from this day forward to never sew a garment for myself by following the pattern exactly.  I do further swear that I will not cut exactly on the printed pattern lines or stitch on the printed seamlines until I have made every attempt to fit and adjust said pattern pieces, specifically seamlines, to fit me.

I place this photo here and wear the Killer Bees Vest to the day job today as an example of my sewing misconceptions and document it as a means to remind me of lessons that I have learned over the past couple of months.  These past few months have been very enlightening as I return to garment sewing after 20 years.  I’ve spend much time reading blog posts and tutorials and op ed’s on how sewing and fitting should be approached rather than how I was taught to do it.

This is the last garment I will sew straight from the pattern!

I referenced this vest in an earlier post. Here are the details:

I used McCalls 5252, opting for view D, the hooded full-zip vest.  I used the XXXL size, split the yoke and spread it about an inch and increased the width of the underarm side panel piece.

Note the red arrow in the upper right.  There is extra fabric there because I pivoted the front to add a couple of inches for a FBA but failed to realize the shoulders need adjusting as well.  And yes, you can fit a bowling ball in there.

The arrow on the left pointing to the base of the zipper shows where I could not make the hems match.  I hemmed it twice.  The zipper, although stitched on the vest separately, matched exactly at the top and I was never able to get the bottoms to line up.  Needless, to say, this is the only time today the vest will be zipped up.

The arrow on the lower right seemingly pointing to my right hand demonstrates exactly how much room the pocket opening has.  Something about the construction of these pockets totally eluded me.  Not only is that pocket very small, the opposite pocket is regular size and both has the fleece selvages exposed at the pocket opening.

All I can say was it was a bad sewing day.  Evidently, the thought of trying to produce a good-looking garment for myself affects my subconscious in a very negative way.

Onward and upward!

Oh, and here is what I think I look like with this on.